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Mordel
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 Posted: 26-Mar-2004 10:57 Post subject: 3D Map |
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So, I started thinking about 3D maps and creating one for chihawk's Mosh Pit event. I figure it will be very cool to have a 3D map for this for visual effects.
What is the best thickness foam to use? I'm thinking 1/2" thickness is about the correct height for each level. Thoughts?
The more complicated thing to do here is to make this map watertight. For those that haven't played this event, think of a big pothole that fills with water.
So, does anyone have ideas on how to create this so water won't leak out? My first thought was as I create each level to line it with tinfoil and use some sort of sealer spray (does something like this exist?) that will seal the cracks and create a surface where water won't leak. If I do this for each level up (including the hidden layers you can't see), it will essentially create something that has about 12 levels of protection from leaks.
Does anyone have thoughts on this?
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Havoc~Ronin
Federated Suns
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 11:31 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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There is a foam spray available ( name escapes me) that will seal the area sprayed with a coating that will hold water nicely. I think it is available at Home Depot or Lowe's. From experience, make sure you do this in a well ventilated area. The spray reacts this the surface being sprayed and can create some nasty fumes (lasts a couple of hours).
I have also tried the liner method (like in a pool) with a thick plastic sheet. This also works (with no fumes) but does require a lot of patience and a healthy expletive vocabulary.
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Mordel
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 11:49 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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I will look for a foam spray then. I can spray out in the back yard, so not a problem there. The liner thing will take a lot longer and I don't want to be that diligent.
Another thing I was condiering is some sort of coating that can be applied to the styrofoam afterwards. Not sure what would work best here. Something along the lines of a putty that can be spread on to also cover the cracks and then would give a nice appearance when spray-painted.
Does anyone have any recommendations for such a putty substance that can be used? I'm beginning to salivate at the thought of all of this now. 
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Blasty McNasty
Free Worlds League
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Joined: 06-Jan-2004 00:00
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 11:58 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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Try using some of that fiberglass patch stuff. Makes a helluva seal.
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Sir Henry
Team Bansai
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 12:04 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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You actually place mechs in Water??? 
Painted Mechs????
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How big is this going to be? Make it from one piece?
[ This Message was edited by: Sir Henry on 2004-03-26 12:06 ]
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Mordel
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 12:41 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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Obviously I'm not going to use my good painted minis. I've got some pretty crap ones that I have no issues with placing in water, fire, acid or anything else.
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Oafman
Draconis Combine
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 14:39 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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Just make sure that you cover the styrofoam with something before using any sprays from a can. Most spray paints will eat styrofoam and make a nasty mess. (learned this the hard way)
I would say that if you use 1/2 foam, then the easiest way to cover it woule be to cover it with the auto filler stuff (Bondo or any of those fiberglass fillers like was suggested) then once that is dry you can sand it to the texture that you want. After that is all done, then you can spray it with standard automotive grade primer and spray paint. The filler covered with primer and paint will make it water proof (works on your car doesn't it?) 3 easy steps.
There are other methods that would probably last longer than foam, but they all cost more. (plywood with the above mentioned painting method would not get divots taken out my the minatures as easily, or you could make a tower out of wood and use that as a mold and use a fiberglass kit to make the pit, just to name a few) It all depends on just how much time and cash you want to invest.
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Mordel
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 15:06 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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On 2004-03-26 14:39, Oafman wrote:
Just make sure that you cover the styrofoam with something before using any sprays from a can. Most spray paints will eat styrofoam and make a nasty mess. (learned this the hard way)
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So would Bondo or some other form of fiberglass resin eat through the styrofoam as well?
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I would say that if you use 1/2 foam, then the easiest way to cover it woule be to cover it with the auto filler stuff (Bondo or any of those fiberglass fillers like was suggested) then once that is dry you can sand it to the texture that you want. After that is all done, then you can spray it with standard automotive grade primer and spray paint. The filler covered with primer and paint will make it water proof (works on your car doesn't it?) 3 easy steps.
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I do think I'll go with Bondo as it isn't too expensive and should seal quite well. Then spray on the color when I'm doine (after sanding, of course).
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There are other methods that would probably last longer than foam, but they all cost more. (plywood with the above mentioned painting method would not get divots taken out my the minatures as easily, or you could make a tower out of wood and use that as a mold and use a fiberglass kit to make the pit, just to name a few) It all depends on just how much time and cash you want to invest.
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Hmmm... never really thought of wood. Cutting the wood into the right shapes is probably no easier than trying to cut the styrofoam into the correct shapes, and it would last longer (at a higher cost, of course). I'll have to look into the price difference to see if I want to go that route or stick to styrofoam.
Any other tips people can think of? The sides of this "pit" will be flat and make a nice place for advertisements! 
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Feral
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 15:37 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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Well the styrofoam will be considerably easier than the wood ... cutting wood into the right sizes will be very tricky without a jig-saw or something. As for styrofoam the real hard part is getting it not to melt. There might be some very mild spray-on stuff that would seal it ... it would have to be silicone based and contain no petroleum of any kind ... but your average hobby shop should have it. That would be much easier than modelling clay or putty or anything like that.
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Seraph
Blighted Sun Battalion
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 16:16 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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Try that blue foam they use in construction, it's as light as styrofoam but more durable. And check you local hobby store for clear resins used in model railroading. I would go for 1" foam as most mechs are about 2" tall and each elevation change is supposed to be one level. Also you can get a foam knife or a hot foam knife to cut it with. Or just a regular knife but it will dull quickly. I'm a model railroader myself and the above items work great for them.
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Rick Raisley
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Rarich
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 18:23 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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Silicone sealer? The stuff used for caulking, sealing or glueing? There is some clear stuff out there, home improv. or auto store would be my guess. a couple layers of clear shelf paper could do it too. place one down with the necessary slits to fit, of set the slits in the other one and be careful to get the sticky stuff sealed tight on both sets of seams.
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Rarich
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 18:25 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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The chemicals dissolve styrofoam! at least in the kit I tried, used for fixing cars. Maybe a surfboard patch kit would work better (I know most of those are foam cored).
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Mordel
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 18:50 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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Excellent reading Rick, although it doesn't cover the idea of allowing maps with actual water in them. If what I'm doing works, I'll let you know. More than likely though, with my inexperience, it'll probably be a disaster and my foam will melt on me or be cut into squares!
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Mordel
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| Posted: 26-Mar-2004 18:53 Post subject: RE: 3D Map |
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Well, I did buy the 1" foam as I realized the 1/2" was too thin. I bought small amounts of the basic materials and will make a small, probably depth 3, map and see how it works. If everything works I'll expand it. Don't hold your breath though. I though I did find some nice Stonelike paint if the resin works underneath it.
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